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Electrical
Tips
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Replacing
outlets.
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Replacing
switches.
Turn off the power. Some
switches can have multiple circuits within the box!
Single pole.
If there is only one switch controlling a
light, it is considered a single pole. When replacing a single pole
switch or dimmer, there are only 2 screw contacts on the switch or
dimmer. Before removing the switch, note what wires are located on
the screws. Some switches may have several wires going to one
screw terminal. Remove the existing switch and install the new
device. It does not matter which screw the wires go to (unless its a
lighted switch or multiple ganged switch).
Three way.
If there are 2 switches controlling a light, it
is considered a 3-way. When replacing a 3-way switch or dimmer, there
are 3 screw contacts on the switch. Before removing the switch, look
at it. 2 contacts are the same color and the other is an odd color.
The odd color screw will usually have a mark to designate them as the
odd terminal. The wire that comes off of the odd color screw on the
original switch, needs to be connected to the odd color screw of the
new switch. Connect the remaining 2 wires to the other 2 contacts. (Trouble
shooting 3-ways)
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Trouble
shooting 3-way switches.
Continue only if you are qualified for working
with live electrical parts and are
familiar with working with testers! Read
all of the following before beginning. If an item is unfamiliar, do
not attempt to continue.
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Switch
Plates.
When installing switch plates, turn the screws
so the slot runs up and down (vertical). It gives the installation a
nice professional look.
When painting switch or outlet plates, use 220
sandpaper to remove any dirt and to smooth and "deglaze"
the plate. It should have a frosty look to it. Use any normal primer
and house paint to complete the process.
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Broken
lamp sockets.
If you try to remove a light bulb and the base
of the bulb breaks off and remains in the fixture socket, here are a
few suggestions for removing the light bulb base without damaging the
fixture socket.
-
Make sure the power is off. At this point, there
are exposed electrical contacts in the bulb base. It is very
difficult to tell if the power is off if the fixture is controlled by
a 3-way, timer, etc.!!
- Here are 3 ways I have used
to remove a broken bulbs.
-
Use needle nose pliers. Not in the way you
might think. Do not try to grab hold of the metal lamp shell and turn
it. This usually will damage the fixture socket. Instead, close the
pliers and insert them into the socket shell. Then open them up so
they will press out on the broken shell. With sufficient opening
pressure, turn the pliers counterclockwise. This should bring the
shell out.
-
If space will not allow you to use needle nose
pliers, I have used a thinly sliced piece of wood (popcicle stick).
Shave the width of the wood down so it will snuggly fit into the lamp
shell. Turn the stick counterclockwise to remove the broken shell.
-
I have also heard of using a potato. This would
probably work but I really like french fries and would hate to ruin a
good potato. I would use this method as a last resort.
-
Always check the fixture socket after removing
a stubborn lamp for damage.
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Replacing
plugs on a cord.
It sound simple to replace an old plug on a
lamp cord. I'm sure thousands of plugs are replaced each year without
incident. There is a correct way to install a plug on a cord.
-
When replacing a plug, always purchase the
correct type. This is to say that whatever type of plug was on the
original cord, the new one should be no different.
- Grounded cord with a ground prong.
- Non-polarized plug - both
blades are the same size
- Polarized plug - the grounded
blade is larger.
-
The identified strand is the grounded.
Identified could be ribs on the cord, a mark of white or grey. The
identified strand should go to the larger of the two blades.
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Moisture
forming around your bath vent fan.
There could be several reasons moisture would
be on the ceiling or on your bath fan cover.
-
If you are taking steamy baths or showers, you
need to let the fan run for an extra 5 or 10 minutes after your done
with the bath or shower. The reason for this is not only to eliminate
any humidity in the air, but to clear the bath vent duct of moisture.
Water vapor can collect on the insides of the fan duct (especially
when the attic air temperature is below 35 degrees) and drip or
collect in the duct. If enough of the water vapor collects and pools,
it will leak back down into the fan unit. By running the fan an extra
length of time, this will help evaporate any moisture on the duct
walls or that may have collected in a low area of the duct.
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Check to see if your fan has adequate
insulation covering the fan. If you take a steamy shower and the
attic area where the fan is located is colder than 35 degrees,
condensation will form on the metal shell of the fan. This is the
same phenomena that a cold glass of ice water goes through on a warm day.
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